Sɛtanburukalo tile 10, saan 2024
Siliki feereyɔrɔ be yɔrɔ duuru lo datugu. Nin barokun be ɲumanya kɔlɔsili tagamasiɲɛ jɔnjɔnw ani sɛgɛsɛgɛri fɛɛrɛw ɲɛfɔ sannikɛlaw ye yɔrɔ kelen kelen bɛɛ la.
Siliki dilanyɔrɔ be se ka tilan yɔrɔba duuru ye: fɔlɔ, sericulture — o la, mugu yiridenw marali, siliki nɔgɔw fanw bɔli, siliki nɔgɔw lamɔli ani kongokolonw tigɛli. O ye izinibaara bɛɛ daminɛyɔrɔ ye ani ɲumanya jusigilan ye. A filanan, kongokolon ja — kongokolon kuraw be ja walisa ka mara wagatijan kɔnɔ. Koko jacogo funteni n’a wagati kɔlɔsili be nɔɔ to siliki ka ɲumanya kan. A sabanan, siliki yɛlɛmani — u be kongokolonw dilan ka funu, k’u yɛlɛma ani k’u yɛlɛma siɲɛ fila walisa ka siliki nɔgɔnin bɔ. O ye yɔrɔ ye min ka fɛɛrɛw ka ca ni yɔrɔ bɛɛ ye fani dilanyɔrɔ la. A naaninan, fani dilan — fani gɛrɛnnin lo be dilan ka kɛ fani ye, ani fani dilanni labɛnni (warping, sizing) ani fani dilan masin baara. Duurunan, fɛɛn minw banna — faniw be dilan ka kɛ fɛɛn labanw ye i n’a fɔ fanikolonw, fanikolonw ani minan wɛrɛw. Nafa tilannin siratigɛ la, sericulture be 15-20% ɲɔgɔn sɔrɔ fɛn laban nafa la, koko jali 5% ɲɔgɔn, siliki yɛlɛmani 20-25% ɲɔgɔn, fani dilan 30-40% ɲɔgɔn, ani fɛn bannin dilanni 20-30% ɲɔgɔn.
Sericulture lo ye siliki ɲuman jusigilan ye. A fɔlɔ, suguya sugandili — siliki sugu caaman be siliki bɔ min ka fiyɛ bonya, a janya ani a barika tɛ kelen ye kosɔbɛ. Siliki sugu minw ka ɲi kosɔbɛ (i n’a fɔ Qiufeng Baiyu), olu be siliki ɲuman, jan, gwɛman ani barikaman bɔ. A filanan, dumuni ɲuman — mugu furaburuw suguya, u ka kɔrɔbayali ani u ka saniyako be nɔɔ to nɛgɛw ka kɛnɛyako n’u ka ɲumanya kan. Muli furaburu minw be ni fɛnɲɛnamafagalanw ye, u be se ka kɛ sababu ye ka siliki baga bila mɔgɔ la wala ka siliki nɔgɔmanw bɔ. A sabanan, lamɔyɔrɔ — funteni, jimanya ani fiɲɛbɔyɔrɔ kɔlɔsili nafa ka bon kongofɛnw ka falenni n’u ka yiriwali la. Funteni min ka kan ka kɛ siliki lamɔyɔrɔw la, o ye 24-28°C ye, ani yɔrɔ sumaya ye 70-80% ye. A naaninan, banakisɛw kɛlɛli — bana caaman be se ka sɔrɔ nɛgɛw la (i n’a fɔ binjuguw ka bana ani nɔgɔya bana), minw tɛ nɛgɛw faga dɔrɔn, nka u be nɛgɛw lamɔyɔrɔ bɛɛ nɔgɔ fana. O la, sɛnɛfɛnw ka ɲumanya kɔlɔsili ka kan ka daminɛ ɲɔgɔn fɛ ka bɔ yɔrɔ naani na: suguya, balo, sigiyɔrɔ ani bana.
Koko ja ani siliki yɛlɛmani ye yɔrɔ fila ye minw ka fɛɛrɛw ka ca siliki baarakɛyɔrɔw la. Koko jali kunba ye funteni ni wagati kɔlɔsili tigitigi ye. Ni funteni dɔgɔyara kojugu, kongokolonw tɛ ja ka ɲɛ ani u be se ka yɛlɛma; ni funteni ka ca kojugu, poroteyini min be sɔrɔ siliki kɔnɔ, o be tiɲɛ. Koko jacogo minw be kɛ ka kɛɲɛ ni sariyaw ye, u ka teli ka tilan yɔrɔ saba la: u be kɔn ka kalaya (so kɔnɔ funteni be se ka se 60°C ma, lɛri 2 ɲɔgɔn), u be ja kosɔbɛ (60°C ka se 100°C ma, lɛri 4 ɲɔgɔn) ani u be nɛnɛ (100°C ka se so kɔnɔ funteni ma, lɛri 2 ɲɔgɔn). Siliki yɛlɛmani ka baara jɔnjɔn ye a fununin, a yɛlɛmani ani a yɛlɛmani siɲɛ fila ye. O fununin kuun ye ka serisin nɔgɔya walisa a ka se ka yɛlɛma nɔgɔya la. Jii wulinin ka funteni be to ka 60-80°C la miniti 20-30 ɲɔgɔn kɔnɔ. Reeling ye siliki bɔcogo ye ka bɔ kongokolon kɔnɔ; nɛgɛkunbɛnnan kelen be se ka nɛgɛkunbɛnnan 500-1 500 bɔ min be to ka yɛlɛma yɛlɛma. Siliki juru caaman yɛlɛmani ani u labɛncogo ye ka kɛ siliki nɔgɔman ye. O yɔrɔ ka ɲumanya yiracogo jɔnjɔnw ye: fani ɲuman (min be fɔ denier D kɔnɔ, ani min ka ɲi ka tɛmɛ tɔɔw kan), a ka kɛ kelen ye, a ka fanga ka bon ani a saniyanin lo.
Ka fani dilan, o ye ka fani yɛlɛma ka kɛ fani ye, a be kɛ yɔrɔ fila la: ka kɔn fani dilan ɲɛ ani fani dilan masin baara. A fɔlɔ, labɛn min be kɛ ka kɔn fani dilan ɲɛ, o ye ka fani yɛlɛma — ka fani juru caaman labɛn ɲɔgɔn fɛ ani k’u siri fani dilan yiri dɔ kan; sizing — ka sizing minanw don juruw la walisa ka dɔ fara u ka fanga kan ani u ka se ka yɛlɛma; ani juru don — ka juru nɛgɛw tɛmɛ yiriw ni bɔgɔw cɛma. O baarakɛcogow ka ɲumanya be nɔɔ to fani dilancogo ɲuman n’a ka fani ɲumanw kan. A filanan, fani dilanni masinw ka baara — bi fani dilanyɔrɔw be baara kɛ ni jii-jet faniw ani rapier faniw ye ka caya. Jii-jet fani dilannanw ka ɲi ka fani nɔgɔmanw dilan teliya la nka u ka ɲi ka fani barikamanw dilan; rapier looms be se ka fani girinmanw ni fani jɛgɛw dilan ni teliya ye dɔɔni dɔɔni nka u be se ka yɛlɛma yɛlɛma kosɔbɛ. O fani yɔrɔ ka ɲumanya yiracogo jɔnjɔnw ye: fani gɛrɛntɛ (warp ni weft hakɛ, min be yira juru la santimɛtiri kelen kelen bɛɛ la), GSM, gɛrɛntɛ, ani lustre uniformité.
Fɛɛn minw be dilan ka ban, o ye ka faniw yɛlɛma ka kɛ fɛɛn labanw ye, o min be kɛ ni baara jɔnjɔn saba ye: u be ɲɛgɛnw kɛ, u be sɛbɛw bɔ ani u be u ban. A fɔlɔ, ɲɛgɛn — siliki be ni ɲɛgɛn ɲuman ye ani a be se ka baara kɛ ni asidi ɲɛgɛnw ye, ɲɛgɛnw minw be se ka yɛlɛma ani ɲɛgɛnw minw be yɛlɛma yɛlɛma ani ɲɛgɛn sifa wɛrɛw cɛma. Fɛɛn min be se ka kɛ ka ɲɛgɛnw dilan, o ye kulɛri teliya ye — o la, jii teliya, wɔsi teliya, mɔmɔ teliya ani yeelen teliya. Silikifɛn ɲumanw ka kulɛri teliya ka kan ka se 4nan ma wala ka tɛmɛ o kan (sɔrɔyɔrɔ 5nan na, 5nan lo ka fisa n’u bɛɛ ye). A filanan, sɛbɛw bɔli — sɛbɛw bɔli min be kɛ ni siliki ye, o be baara kɛ ni sɛbɛw bɔli ye min be kɛ ni ekran ye ani sɛbɛw bɔli ye ɛntɛrɛnɛti kan. Ekran ka sɛbɛw bɔli ka ɲi ka kɛ ka caya ani sɔngɔ man gwɛlɛ nka a ka ɲɛgɛnw ka tiɲɛtigiya dannin lo; ɛntɛrinɛti ka sɛbɛw bɔli be bɛn ni sɛbɛnin fitininw ye ani sɛbɛri gwɛlɛmanw ye minw sɔngɔ ka gwɛlɛ nka u be se ka kɛ ka ɲɛ. A sabanan, ka ban — o la, furakɛcogo dɔw be yen i n’a fɔ ka ban cogo nɔgɔman na, ka ban min tɛ se ka yɛlɛma ani ka ban min tɛ se ka jigi. Ka faniw ban, o be se ka bolow n’u ka baara kɛcogo fisaya kosɔbɛ nka o be se ka nɔɔ to fana fani cogoyaw kan.
B2B sannikɛlaw fɛ, fɛɛrɛ dɔw be yen minw be bɛn n’u ye ka sɛgɛsɛgɛri kɛ ka ɲɛsin fani dilanyɔrɔ yɔrɔ kelen kelen bɛɛ ma. A fɔlɔ, kongokolon ka ɲumanya — sɛgɛsɛgɛri tagamasiɲɛw ye: kongokolon bonya, kulɛri, jii hakɛ, ani bana yɔrɔw hakɛ. Koko ɲumanw ka jimanya ka kan ka dɔgɔya ni 12% ye. A filanan, fanikolon ɲuman — sɛgɛsɛgɛri tagamasiɲɛw ye: ɲumanya (denier D), fanga, kelenya, ani saniya. Siliki nɔgɔnin ka ɲumanya be sɔrɔ 15-30 D cɛ, ani ɲumanman be kɛ premium ye. A sabanan, fani ɲuman — sɛgɛsɛgɛri tagamasiɲɛw ye: fani gɛrɛntɛ n’a gɛrɛntɛ, GSM, gɛrɛntɛ, ani kulɛri teliya. A naaninan, fɛɛn minw dilanna ka ban, u ka ɲi — sɛgɛsɛgɛri tagamasiɲɛw ye: fɛɛn minw be fa (siliki faniw kama), fani minw be tigɛ, ani u janya basiginin lo. Tilanyɔrɔ kelen kelen bɛɛ la, sannikɛlaw be se k’a ɲini feerekɛlaw fɛ u k’u ka sɛgɛsɛgɛri rapɔɔriw di minw bɔra sɛgɛsɛgɛrikɛyɔrɔ yɛrɛmahɔrɔnyalenw fɛ (i n’a fɔ SGS, Intertek, wala Sinuwaw ka fani sɛgɛsɛgɛrikɛyɔrɔ). Ka fara o kan, sɛgɛsɛgɛri minw be kɛ yɔrɔw la, n’u be baara kɛ ni fɛɛnw dilanyɔrɔw ye ani u ka baarakɛcogo ɲuman ye, o fana ye fɛɛrɛ nafamanw ye walisa ka fɛɛnw ɲumanya sɛgɛsɛgɛ.
Duniɲa kɔnɔ, fɛnw feereyɔrɔw ka gɛrɛntɛ laɲiniw cayali la, siliki baara be degunw ni sababuw sɔrɔ ka se ka mɔgɔw sɛgɛsɛgɛ ani k’u gɛrɛntɛ. A fɔlɔ, fɛɛrɛ minw be se ka mɔgɔw nɔfɛtagama — blockchain ani RFID fɛɛrɛw be kɛra ka mɔgɔw nɔfɛtagama, o min b’a to sannikɛlaw be se ka baara bɛɛ lɔn k’a ta kongokolon na ka taga a bila fɛn bannin na. A filanan, fɛnɲɛnamafagalanw ka sɛrɛkili — fɛnɲɛnamafagalanw ka siliki sɛrɛkiliw (i n’a fɔ GOTS, Global Organic Textile Standard) be kɛra donyɔrɔ ye sugu ɲumanw na. A sabanan, fɛnw dilan cogo ɲuman na — dumunikɛlaw ka haminanko fɛnw dilan cogo ɲuman na ani jago tilennin na, o be to ka caya, ani fani dilanyɔrɔ ka kan k’a ka kunkanbaara yira baarakɛcogo n’a laminiko ta fan fɛ. B2B sannikɛlaw fɛ, ka feerekɛlaw sugandi minw be se ka mɔgɔw nɔfɛtagama ani minw be ni sɛbɛw ye, o tɛ sariyaw labatoli faratiw dɔgɔya dɔrɔn, nka o be yɔrɔ ɲuman fana fara fɛɛn labanw kan. Ka fara o kan, fɛnw feereyɔrɔw ka gɛrɛntɛ yiriwali be dɛmɛ don ka sanni jɛnɲɔgɔnya basigininw sigi sen kan wagatijan kɔnɔ — ni sannikɛlaw be se ka la a la kosɔbɛ fɛnw feerebagaw ka ɲumanya n’u ka sariyaw labatoli la, jɛnɲɔgɔnya dunni n’a bonya bena yiriwa kosɔbɛ. View the Silk Products Supplier
Aw k’aw ka poroze cogoya n’a laɲiniw fɔ an ye, an bena fɛɛrɛ ɲuman labɛn ani ka wari hakɛ dɔ di lɛrɛ 24 kɔnɔ.
Ɲɛyirali fɛMulberry siliki/tussah siliki faniw, siliki saniyalen lafɛnw, siliki kunbilananw, siliki faniw ni pijama, izini siliki gwɛman ani siliki kulɛrilamanw, fani minw dilanna ni warp ye, siliki fani minw dilanna ni bolo ye, SKU 34; 100% mugu fa walima tussah siliki, A-grade bamuso ni denmisɛnw ka faniw, dɛmɛ don mɔgɔw ka laada fa girinya ni bonya la ka kɛɲɛ ni ɲinini ye, SGS / Intertek ka sɛgɛsɛgɛri rapɔɔri di mɔgɔ sabanan fɛ, jago kumadenw tɛ EXW / FOB / CIF / DDP ye.
A’ ye lɔnniya sɔrɔ siliki fɛɛnw sugandicogo n’u ka sɔngɔ koo la →