Mulberry Silk vs Tussah Silk: Essential Differences and Selection Guide

Article

June 20, 2021

Mulberry and tussah silk are often conflated but have essential differences. This article clarifies their differences and applicable scenarios.

Origin: The Divergence Path of Domesticated and Wild Silkworms

The fundamental difference between mulberry silk and tussah silk stems from variety origin. Mulberry silk (Bombyx mori) is a domesticated silkworm, domesticated from wild silkworms thousands of years ago by humans, feeding on mulberry leaves. Due to long-term breeding in artificially controlled environments, mulberry silkworms have completely lost their ability to survive in the wild — today's mulberry silkworms can only be raised in silkworm rearing houses. Tussah silk (Antheraea pernyi) is a type of wild silkworm, feeding on oak leaves, mainly distributed in Northeast China, the Korean Peninsula, and the Russian Far East. Tussah silkworms retain strong wild survival capabilities and can be reared in natural forests. This difference in origin directly determines the differences in fiber structure and performance between the two types of silk.

Fiber Structure: Differences in Diameter, Cross-Section, and Luster

From the perspective of fiber structure, mulberry silk and tussah silk have three key differences. First, fiber diameter — the average diameter of mulberry silk is about 14-20 microns, while that of tussah silk is about 40-70 microns, 2-3 times that of mulberry silk. This is the fundamental reason why tussah silk feels slightly coarser and less smooth than mulberry silk. Second, cross-sectional shape — the cross-section of mulberry silk is approximately triangular, which causes light to refract and reflect inside the fiber, creating the pearl-like luster unique to mulberry silk. The cross-section of tussah silk is a flat elongated oval, with duller luster. Third, sericin content — mulberry silk has a sericin content of about 20-25%, while tussah silk has about 8-12%. Sericin is the natural gum on the outer layer of silk fibers; higher content makes the fiber stiffer but less flexible. The higher sericin content of mulberry silk makes it suitable for weaving into lightweight fabrics, while the lower sericin content of tussah silk makes it more suitable for ropes and industrial silk.

Physical Properties: Strength, Abrasion Resistance, and Hygroscopicity Comparison

In terms of physical properties, mulberry silk and tussah silk each have their strengths and weaknesses. First, tensile strength — the tensile strength of tussah silk is about 3.5-4.5 cN/dtex, slightly higher than mulberry silk's 3.0-4.0 cN/dtex. This gives tussah silk an advantage in application scenarios requiring high strength, such as outdoor products and industrial textiles. Second, abrasion resistance — tussah silk's abrasion resistance is significantly better than mulberry silk, mainly due to its thicker fiber diameter and tighter fiber structure. Third, hygroscopicity — the hygroscopicity of both silks is similar, both reaching about 30% of their own weight, far higher than cotton (about 7-8%) and polyester (about 0.4-0.5%). Fourth, heat resistance — the heat resistance temperature of mulberry silk is about 140-150°C, while that of tussah silk is about 160-170°C, making tussah silk more suitable for processes requiring high-temperature treatment.

Application Scenarios: Which Silk for Which Product

Based on fiber characteristics, mulberry silk and tussah silk have formed a clear division of labor in application scenarios. Mulberry silk is mainly used in the following fields: first, high-end apparel — shirts, dresses, pajamas, and other products requiring soft feel and luster; second, silk quilts and bedding — scenarios requiring skin-friendliness and breathability; third, high-end scarves and shawls — accessories requiring luster and drape. Tussah silk is mainly used in the following fields: first, outdoor and casual wear — such as tussah silk jackets, pants, and other products requiring abrasion resistance; second, industrial textiles — such as filtration materials, medical sutures, etc.; third, decorative textiles — such as tapestries, art wall hangings, and other products requiring coarse texture. Additionally, tussah silk is gaining attention in the eco-textile field because the free-range model has less impact on ecosystems, aligning with organic and sustainable concepts.

Procurement Points: How to Distinguish and Choose

For B2B purchasers, the ability to distinguish mulberry silk from tussah silk is a basic but critical skill when procuring silk raw materials or products. First, check the label — China's national standards require silk products to indicate the silk type (mulberry or tussah) and content percentage. If the label only says 'silk' without specifying the type, caution is warranted. Second, check the color — mulberry silk is naturally white, while tussah silk is naturally yellowish-brown or grayish-white. If a product labeled as mulberry silk is abnormally white (bleached), there may be quality issues. Third, feel the texture — mulberry silk is smooth and elastic, while tussah silk is slightly coarse and stiff. Fourth, check the price — if the price is far below the reasonable market range, it may be a blend or inferior product. Fifth, require the supplier to provide third-party test reports specifying the silk type and content. For high-end products, it is recommended to require test reports from SGS, Intertek, or the China Textile Product Testing Center.

Global Markets: Regional Preferences for the Two Silks

Significant differences exist in regional preferences for mulberry and tussah silk worldwide. East Asia (China, Japan, Korea) is a traditional consumption market for mulberry silk, where consumers highly recognize the luster and softness of mulberry silk. The Japanese market particularly prefers fine mulberry silk fabrics with high thread counts. The European market has a high acceptance of mulberry silk, especially in fashion centers like France and Italy. The North American market has strong demand for silk bedding products, predominantly mulberry silk. Tussah silk has lower awareness in European and North American markets but is gaining attention as an 'organic and sustainable' alternative. The Southeast Asian market has demand for both types of silk but prefers lightweight mulberry silk products. For global purchasers, understanding target market preferences is the prerequisite for product positioning. View the Silk Products Supplier