Mulberry Silk vs Tussah Silk: Danfara nafamaw ani sugandili gafe

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Zuwɛnkalo tile 20, san 2021

Tuma caman na, mɔri ni tussah siliki bɛ fara ɲɔgɔn kan nka danfara nafamaw bɛ u ni ɲɔgɔn cɛ. Nin barokun bɛ u danfara n’u ka ko kɛlenw ɲɛfɔ minnu bɛ se ka sirataama.

Bɔyɔrɔ: Sokɔnɔna ni kungo kɔnɔ silikiw ka danfara sira

Danfara jɔnjɔn min bɛ mɔri siliki ni tussah siliki cɛ, o bɛ bɔ suguya bɔyɔrɔ la. Mulberry silk (Bombyx mori) ye siliki ye min bɛ balo, a bɛ balo ka bɔ kungo siliki la a san ba caman ye nin ye hadamadenw fɛ, a bɛ balo mɔri buluw la. K’a sababu kɛ u ka sɛnɛ kuntaalajan ye sigidaw la minnu bɛ kɔlɔsi ni fɛn dilannenw ye, mɔri siliki wuluw bɔnɛna u seko la pewu kungo kɔnɔ — bi mɔri siliki wuluw bɛ se ka lamɔ siliki lamɔ sow dɔrɔn de kɔnɔ. Tussah siliki (Antheraea pernyi) ye kungo siliki wulu sugu dɔ ye, a bɛ balo oak buluw la, a bɛ jɛnsɛn kosɛbɛ Sinuwa Worodugu-Kɔrɔn, Kore gun ani Risi kɔrɔnfɛla jan. Tussah silikaw bɛ kungo kɔnɔ ɲɛnamaya seko barikama mara, wa u bɛ se ka lamɔ kungow kɔnɔ minnu bɛ sɔrɔ u yɛrɛ la. O danfara min bɛ bɔyɔrɔ la, o bɛ danfara minnu bɛ fiyɛri jɔcogo n’u baarakɛcogo la siliki suguya fila ninnu cɛ, olu jira k’u ɲɛsin ɲɔgɔn ma.

Fibrew jɔcogo: Danfara minnu bɛ u cɛmancɛ, u tigɛcogo ani u yeelen na

Ni an bɛ fiyɛri jɔcogo jateminɛ, mɔri siliki ni tussa siliki bɛ danfaraba saba la. Fɔlɔ, fiɲɛ cɛmancɛ — mɔri siliki cɛmancɛ cɛmancɛ bɛ se mikron 14-20 ɲɔgɔn ma, k’a sɔrɔ tussa siliki cɛmancɛ bɛ se mikron 40-70 ɲɔgɔn ma, o ye mɔri siliki ta ye siɲɛ 2-3. O de ye kun jɔnjɔn ye min b’a to tussah siliki bɛ kɛ i n’a fɔ a ka gɛlɛn dɔɔni ani a tɛ nɔgɔya ka tɛmɛ mɔri siliki kan. Filanan, tigɛli cogoya — mɔri siliki tigɛli bɛ kɛ kɛrɛ saba ɲɔgɔn ye, o bɛ kɛ sababu ye ka yeelen kari ani ka yeelen bɔ fiɲɛ kɔnɔ, ka yeelen bɔ i n’a fɔ perle, min ɲɔgɔn tɛ mɔri siliki la. Tussah siliki tigɛli ye oval janyalen fla ye, a yeelen ka dɔgɔn. Sabanan, serisini hakɛ — mɔri siliki serisini hakɛ bɛ se 20-25% ɲɔgɔn ma, ka sɔrɔ tussa siliki bɛ 8-12% ɲɔgɔn bɔ. Serisini ye gomu ye min bɛ sɔrɔ siliki fiyɛw kɛnɛma la; ni a hakɛ ka ca, o bɛ fiɲɛ bila ka gɛlɛya nka a tɛ se ka wuli kosɛbɛ. Serisini hakɛ cayalenba min bɛ mɔbili siliki la, o b’a to a bɛnnen don ka finimugu nɔgɔlenw dilan, ka sɔrɔ serisini hakɛ dɔgɔyali min bɛ tusa siliki la, o b’a to a bɛnnen don juruw ni izini siliki ma.

Farikolo cogoyaw: Fanga, sɔgɔsɔgɔninjɛ kunbɛnni, ani jibɔcogo sumalen

Fɛnɲɛnɛmako siratigɛ la, mɔri siliki ni tussa siliki kelen-kelen bɛɛ n’u fanga n’u barikantanya. A fɔlɔ, sɔgɔli fanga — tussah siliki sɔgɔli fanga bɛ se 3,5-4,5 cN/dtex ɲɔgɔn ma, o ka bon dɔɔnin ka tɛmɛ mɔri siliki kan 3,0-4,0 cN/dtex. O bɛ nafa di tussah siliki ma a kɛcogo la min bɛ fanga caman wajibiya, i n’a fɔ kɛnɛmafɛnw ani izini finiw. Filanan, sɔgɔsɔgɔninjɛ — tussah siliki ka sɔgɔli kunbɛnni ka fisa kosɛbɛ ni mɔri siliki ye, kɛrɛnkɛrɛnnenya la a ka fiyɛri cɛmancɛ ka bon ani a fiyɛri jɔcogo ka gɛlɛn. Sabanan, jiko — siliki fila bɛɛ jibɔcogo bɛ ɲɔgɔn ta, u fila bɛɛ bɛ se u yɛrɛ girinya 30% ɲɔgɔn ma, o ka bon kosɛbɛ ka tɛmɛ cotton (7-8%) ni poliyester (0,4-0,5%) ɲɔgɔn kan. Naaninan, funteni kunbɛnni — mɔri siliki funteni kunbɛnni funteni bɛ se 140-150°C ɲɔgɔn ma, k’a sɔrɔ tussa siliki ta bɛ se 160-170°C ɲɔgɔn ma, o b’a to tussa siliki bɛnnen don kosɛbɛ walew la minnu bɛ furakɛli kɛ ni funteni caman ye.

A kɛcogo: Siliki jumɛn bɛ kɛ fɛn jumɛn kama

Ka da fiyɛri jogo kan, mɔri siliki ni tussa siliki ye baara tilacogo jɛlen kɛ baarakɛcogo la. Mulberry siliki bɛ kɛ kosɛbɛ nin baara ninnu na: fɔlɔ, fini ɲumanw — kamisɔnw, finiw, pijamaw, ani fɛn wɛrɛw minnu bɛ dusukunnata nɔgɔlen ni yeelen de wajibiya; filanan, siliki bugudaw ni dilanw — ko minnu bɛ fari-teriya ni ninakili de wajibiya; sabanan, fulakɛw ni shɔw minnu ka bon kosɛbɛ — fɛn minnu bɛ yeelen ni drape de wajibiya. Tussah siliki bɛ kɛ kosɛbɛ nin baara ninnu na: fɔlɔ, kɛnɛma fini dontaw ani fini dontaw — i n’a fɔ tussah siliki jakitew, pantalonw, ani fɛn wɛrɛw minnu bɛ ɲini ka sɔgɔsɔgɔ; filanan, izini finiw — i n’a fɔ filɛrifɛnw, furakɛli suturaw, a ɲɔgɔnnaw; sabanan, finiw masirilenw — i n’a fɔ tapisi, seko ni dɔnko kogow sirilanw, ani fɛn wɛrɛw minnu bɛ finimugu gɛlɛnw wajibiya. Ka fara o kan, tussah siliki bɛ ka jateminɛ sɔrɔ eko-kɛnɛko siratigɛ la bawo hɔrɔnya-modɛli tɛ nɔba bila ɲɛnamayako la, a bɛ bɛn hakilinaw ma minnu bɛ kɛ fɛnɲɛnamaw ni sigida sabatilenw na.

Sannikɛyɔrɔw: Danfara ni sugandili cogo

B2B sannikɛlaw fɛ, se ka mɔri siliki ni tussa siliki faranfasi, o ye seko jɔnjɔn ye nka a nafa ka bon kosɛbɛ ni u bɛ siliki fɛnɲɛnamafagalanw walima fɛn dilannenw san. Fɔlɔ, aw bɛ sɛbɛnfura lajɛ — Sinuwa jamana ka sariyaw b’a ɲini siliki fɛnw fɛ u ka siliki suguya jira (muri walima tussah) ani a kɔnɔfɛnw kɛmɛsarada la. Ni sɛbɛnfura kan ko ‘siliki’ dɔrɔn k’a sɔrɔ a suguya ma fɔ, aw ka kan ka aw janto a la. Filanan, aw bɛ a kulɛri lajɛ — mɔri siliki ye fin ye a yɛrɛ la, ka sɔrɔ tussah siliki ye jɛman-bulu walima nɛrɛmuguma ye a yɛrɛ la. Ni fɛn min sɛbɛnnen don ko mɔri siliki, o finman tɛ cogo la (a jɛlen don), a bɛ se ka kɛ ko jogoɲumanya gɛlɛyaw bɛ yen. Sabanan, aw bɛ a kɛcogo dɔn — mɔri siliki bɛ nɔgɔya ani ka wuli, ka sɔrɔ tussah siliki bɛ kɛ fɛn ye min ka gɛlɛn dɔɔni ani ka gɛlɛya. Naaninan, aw ye sɔngɔ lajɛ — ni sɔngɔ bɛ sugu hakɛ bɛnnen jukɔrɔ kosɛbɛ, a bɛ se ka kɛ fɛn ɲagaminen ye walima fɛn min ka dɔgɔ. Duurunan, a ɲini feerekɛla fɛ a ka mɔgɔ sabananw ka sɛgɛsɛgɛli rapɔɔriw di minnu bɛ siliki suguya n’a kɔnɔkow ɲɛfɔ. Ni fɛn dilannenw ka bon, a ka ɲi ka sɛgɛsɛgɛli rapɔɔriw ɲini SGS, Intertek, walima China Textile Product Testing Center fɛ.

Duniya suguyaw: Sigidaw ka fɛɛrɛw ka ɲɛsin Siliki fila ma

Danfaraba bɛ marabolow ka fɛɛrɛw la minnu ka di mɔri ni tussa siliki ye diɲɛ kɔnɔ. Azi kɔrɔnyanfan (Sina, Japon, Kore) ye laadala sugu ye min bɛ kɛ ka shɔ siliki sɔrɔ, yɔrɔ min na, feerekɛlaw bɛ mɔri siliki nɔɔrɔ n’a nɔgɔya dɔn kosɛbɛ. Japon sugu bɛ kɛrɛnkɛrɛnnenya la, mɔri siliki fini ɲumanw de fɛ minnu ka jiri jate ka ca. Erɔpu sugu bɛ sɔn kosɛbɛ mɔri siliki ma, kɛrɛnkɛrɛnnenya la finiko yɔrɔw la i n’a fɔ Faransi ani Itali. Ameriki Woroduguyanfan sugu la, siliki dilanfɛnw ɲinini ka bon kosɛbɛ, u fanba ye mɔri siliki ye. Tussah siliki ka dɔnniya ka dɔgɔ Erɔpu ni Ameriki Worodugu suguw la nka a bɛ ka jateminɛ sɔrɔ i n’a fɔ ‘fɛn ɲɛnama ni sabatilen’. Azi saheli-kɔrɔnfɛ sugu bɛ ɲinini kɛ siliki suguya fila bɛɛ la nka a ka fisa ni mɔri siliki fɛnw ye minnu ka nɔgɔn. Diɲɛ sannikɛlaw fɛ, sugu laɲinitaw faamuyali ye fɛn ye min ka kan ka kɛ fɔlɔ walasa ka fɛn dilannenw jɔyɔrɔfa. View the Silk Products Supplier