Dzove 20, 2021. Eƒe dukɔ nye […]
Zi geɖe la, wotsɔa mulberry kple tussah seda tsakana gake vovototo vevi aɖewo le wo dome. Nyati sia na woƒe vovototowo kple nɔnɔme siwo woate ŋu azã la me kɔ.
Vovototo vevitɔ si le mulberry seda kple tussah seda dome la tsoa ƒomevi vovovowo ƒe dzɔtsoƒe gbɔ. Mulberry silk (Bombyx mori) nye seda-nudzodzoe si woɖuna le aƒeme, si amegbetɔwo tsɔ tso gbemelãwo me ƒe akpe geɖe enye sia, eye wòɖua mulberry aŋgbawo. Le ɣeyiɣi didi ƒe vidzidzi le nuto siwo dzi wokpɔna kple asi ta la, mulberry silkworms megate ŋu nɔa agbe le gbe me kura o — egbegbe mulberry silkworms koe woate ŋu anyi le seda nudzodzoewo nyinyiƒewo me. Tussah seda (Antheraea pernyi) nye seda ƒomevi aɖe si le gbe me, si ɖua oak-ti ƒe aŋgbawo, eye wòkaka ɖe China ƒe Dzieheɣedzeƒe, Korea Ƒukpo Afã, kple Russia ƒe Ɣedzeƒe Ʋĩ koŋ. Tussah silkworms léa gbemelãwo ƒe agbetsitsi ŋutete sesẽwo me ɖe asi eye woate ŋu anyi wo le dzɔdzɔme avewo me. Vovototo sia si le seda ƒomevi eveawo dome le kaawo ƒe wɔwɔme kple dɔwɔwɔ me tẽ.
Le ka ƒe wɔwɔme ƒe nukpɔsusu nu la, vovototo vevi etɔ̃ le mulberry seda kple tussah seda dome. Gbã la, fiber ƒe didime — mulberry seda ƒe didime le mama dedie nu anɔ abe micron 14-20 ene, esime tussah seda tɔ anɔ abe micron 40-70 ene, si nye mulberry seda tɔ ƒe teƒe 2-3. Esiae nye susu vevitɔ si ta tussah seda sena le eɖokui me be yeƒe lãme le ƒuƒlu vie eye mele blɔ wu mulberry seda o. Evelia. Tussah seda ƒe akpa si wotso la nyea dzogoe gbadza si didi, eye wòklẽna wu. Etɔ̃lia, sericin ƒe agbɔsɔsɔ — mulberry seda ƒe sericin ƒe agbɔsɔsɔme anɔ abe 20-25% ene, gake tussah seda ya ƒe agbɔsɔsɔme anɔ abe 8-12% ene. Sericin ye nye dzɔdzɔme aŋe si le seda ka ƒe gota gome; nusiwo sɔ gbɔ ɖe eme nana ka la sesẽna gake mete ŋu trɔna bɔbɔe o. Sericin si sɔ gbɔ ɖe mulberry seda me na wòsɔ be woatsɔ alɔ̃e wòazu avɔ siwo ƒe kpekpeme le bɔbɔe, gake sericin si le tussah seda me si mesɔ gbɔ o na wòsɔ na ka kple dɔwɔƒewo ƒe seda wu.
Le dzɔdzɔmenunɔamesiwo gome la, mulberry seda kple tussah seda ɖesiaɖe kple woƒe ŋusẽ kple gbɔdzɔgbɔdzɔwo. Gbã la, tensile strength — tussah seda ƒe tensile strength anɔ abe 3.5-4.5 cN/dtex, si kɔkɔ vie wu mulberry silk ƒe 3.0-4.0 cN/dtex. Esia naa viɖe le tussah seda ŋu le eŋudɔwɔwɔ ƒe nɔnɔme siwo hiã ŋusẽ gã, abe gotagomenuwo kple dɔwɔƒewo ƒe avɔwo ene. Evelia, abrasion tsitretsitsi — tussah seda ƒe abrasion tsitretsitsi nyo ŋutɔ wu mulberry seda, vevietɔ le eƒe ka ƒe didime si le kpekpem wu kple ka ƒe wɔwɔme si sesẽ wu ta. Etɔ̃lia, tsidzadza — seda eveawo ƒe tsikpɔkpɔ sɔ, wo ame evea siaa ɖoa woawo ŋutɔ ƒe kpekpeme ƒe 30% lɔƒo, si kɔkɔ sã wu kotoku (anɔ abe 7-8%) kple polyester (anɔ abe 0.4-0.5%). Enelia, dzoxɔxɔ ƒe tsitretsitsi — dzoxɔxɔ ƒe tsitretsitsi ƒe dzoxɔxɔ si le mulberry seda ŋu anɔ abe 140-150°C ene, gake tussah seda tɔ ya anɔ abe 160-170°C, si wɔe be tussah seda sɔ nyuie wu na dɔwɔwɔ siwo hiã be woawɔ dɔ le dzoxɔxɔ gã me.
Wonɔ te ɖe ka ƒe nɔnɔmewo dzi gblɔ be mulberry seda kple tussah seda wɔ dɔmamã si me kɔ le dɔwɔwɔ ƒe nɔnɔmewo me. Wozãa mulberry seda koŋ le go siwo gbɔna me: gbãtɔ, awu deŋgɔwo — awudziwuiwo, awuwo, alɔ̃mewuwo, kple nu bubu siwo bia be woase le wo ɖokui me be wofa tu eye woƒe keklẽ nadze; evelia, seda-wuwo kple abadzivɔwo — nɔnɔme siwo bia be ŋutigbalẽ nawɔ nu xɔlɔ̃wɔwɔtɔe eye wòagbɔ ya; etɔ̃lia, aɖabɛwu kple awudziwui deŋgɔwo — nuzazã siwo hiã na keklẽ kple avɔ. Wozãa tussah seda koŋ le go siwo gbɔna me: gbãtɔ, gota kple ɣeyiɣi kpui aɖe ƒe awudodo — abe tussah seda ƒe awudziwuiwo, pantalon, kple nu bubu siwo hiã be woatsi tre ɖe ʋuʋudedi ŋu ene; evelia, dɔwɔƒewo ƒe avɔwo — abe nusiwo wotsɔna ɖea tsii, atikewɔwɔ ƒe avɔwo, kple bubuawo ene; etɔ̃lia, atsyɔ̃ɖoɖo ƒe avɔwo — abe avɔ siwo wotsɔa avɔ wɔe, aɖaŋunu siwo wotsɔ blaa gli, kple nu bubu siwo hiã be woawɔ nu ƒuƒlu ene. Gakpe ɖe eŋu la, tussah seda le amewo ƒe susu hem yi edzi le lãwo ƒe avɔlɔ̃ƒewo elabena ablɔɖe ƒe kpɔɖeŋua mekpɔa ŋusẽ boo aɖeke ɖe lãwo ƒe agbenɔnɔ dzi o, eye wòwɔ ɖeka kple nukpɔsusu siwo nye lãmenugbagbeviwo kple esiwo li tegbee.
Le B2B ƒlelawo gome la, ŋutete si le wo si be woade vovototo mulberry seda kple tussah seda dome nye aɖaŋu vevi aɖe gake wòle vevie ŋutɔ ne wole seda ƒe nu xoxowo alo nusiwo wowɔ ƒlem. Gbã la, lé ŋku ɖe nusi woŋlɔ ɖe edzi ŋu — China ƒe dukɔa ƒe dzidzenuwo bia be seda ƒe nuwɔna nafia seda ƒomevi (mulberry alo tussah) kple nusiwo le eme ƒe alafa memamã. Ne woŋlɔ ɖe edzi be ‘seda’ ko evɔ womegblɔ eƒe ƒomevi o la, ke ehiã be woaɖɔ ŋu ɖo. Evelia, lé ŋku ɖe amadedea ŋu — mulberry seda nye ɣie le dzɔdzɔme nu, gake tussah seda ya nye ɣie-blɔ alo ɣi-fu le dzɔdzɔme nu. Ne atike aɖe si woŋlɔ ɖe edzi be mulberry silk le ɣie le mɔ si mesɔ o nu (woɖee ɖa) la, ate ŋu anye be eƒe nyonyome ŋuti nyawo ate ŋu ado mo ɖa. Etɔ̃lia, se eƒe nɔnɔme — mulberry seda le gbadzaa eye wòte ŋu trɔna, gake tussah seda ya le ƒuƒlu vie eye wòsẽ. Enelia, lé ŋku ɖe asixɔxɔa ŋu — ne asixɔxɔa le asi si sɔ nu kura la, ate ŋu anye nusi wotsɔ tsaka alo nusi bɔbɔ ɖe anyi wu. Atɔ̃lia, bia tso nudzrala la si be wòana ame etɔ̃lia ƒe dodokpɔ ŋuti nyatakaka siwo gblɔ seda ƒomevi kple emenuwo. Le adzɔnu deŋgɔwo gome la, wokafui be woabia dodokpɔ ŋuti nyatakakawo tso SGS, Intertek, alo China Textile Product Testing Center gbɔ.
Vovototo gã aɖewo le alesi nutoawo lɔ̃a mulberry kple tussah seda le xexeame katã me. Ɣedzeƒe Asia (China, Japan, Korea) nye asi si me woƒlea seda si woyɔna be mulberry le tso blema ke, afisi nuƒlelawo dea dzesi mulberry seda ƒe keklẽ kple eƒe fafɛ le ŋutɔ. Japantɔwo ƒe asitsalawo koŋ lɔ̃a avɔ nyui siwo wotsɔ seda wɔe siwo me ka sɔ gbɔ ɖo. Europa-asiwo lɔ̃a seda si woyɔna be mulberry-seda ŋutɔ, vevietɔ le atsyãwɔƒewo abe France kple Italy ene. Dziehe Amerika ƒe asi me tɔwo dia seda ƒe abadzivɔwo vevie, eye woƒe akpa gãtɔ nye mulberry seda. Tussah seda ƒe susu mebɔ le Europa kple Dziehe Amerika ƒe asiwo me o gake amewo le susu hem yi edzi be enye ‘nu gbagbewo ƒe seda si li tegbee’ si woate ŋu azã ɖe eteƒe. Anyieheɣedzeƒe Asia ƒe asitsalawo di seda ƒomevi eveawo siaa gake wolɔ̃a seda siwo me wodea amii siwo ƒe kpekpeme le bɔbɔe. Le xexeame katã ƒe nuƒlelawo gome la, asi si woɖo taɖodzinu na ƒe didiwo gɔmesesee nye nusi hiã hafi woate ŋu aɖo adzɔnuwo ƒe ɖoƒe. View the Silk Products Supplier
Gblɔ wò dɔa ƒe nɔnɔme kple nudidiwo na mí, eye míawɔ ɖeka kple egbɔkpɔnu nyuitɔ eye míana ga home aɖe le gaƒoƒo 24 me.
Na Nya Si Woagblɔ FemaxeeMulberry seda/tussah seda ƒe xɔmewuwo, seda dzadzɛ ƒe abadzivɔwo, seda ƒe akɔtaɖonuwo, seda ƒe aɖabɛwuwo kple alɔ̃mewuwo, dɔwɔƒe ƒe seda ɣi kple seda si le amadede vovovowo me, avɔ siwo wotsɔ lãfu wɔe siwo wotsɔ lãgbalẽ wɔe, seda ƒe aŋe si wotsɔ asi wɔ, SKU 34; yɔyɔ 100% mulberry seda alo tussah seda, A-grade vidada kple vidzĩ avɔwo, do alɔ dekɔnu yɔyɔ kpekpeme kple lolome le didi nu, na SGS / Intertek ame etɔ̃lia dodokpɔ nyatakaka, asitsatsa ƒe nyawo tiatia EXW / FOB / CIF / DDP.
Srɔ̃ nu tso seda ƒe nuwɔna tiatia kple nyayɔyɔ ŋu →